Kirra Beach — Early

Leave the car on the Esplanade.

Kirra is one of those beaches that doesn't need anything said about it. The sand is wide and pale. The left-hander off the point has been one of the best waves in the country for as long as anyone's kept track. On a good morning the lineup is busy with people who know what they're doing. Watch for a minute. Then head south.

The coastal path runs tight to the water all the way through Coolangatta Beach, Rainbow Bay, and up towards Point Danger. It's flat, it's easy, and it's never not worth doing. Between June and October, keep your eyes on the water. The humpbacks move through close to shore. Closer than you'd expect.

Black Dingo — Breakfast at the Border

Point Danger is where Queensland stops. The Captain Cook Memorial Lighthouse sits right on the headland, and Black Dingo is underneath it.

The deck hangs out over Duranbah Beach. Two states, one table, the kind of view that makes you feel like you're getting away with something. The coffee is specialty and they care about it. Walk-ins only. No bookings. Dogs very welcome.

Eat slowly. Watch D'bah. If the swell is running, the surfers will make it worth watching.

Griffith Street — The Walk Back

Head back north through town and slow down when you hit Griffith Street.

This is the main strip: compact, easy to cover on foot, and full of reasons to stop. The Strand anchors the retail precinct with surf and lifestyle shops worth the browse.

The boutiques scattered through the side streets reward a slow look if you're in the market for something that isn't a chain. Take your time. Nobody's in a rush down here. That's the whole idea.

Back to Kirra — Swim First

By now the sun is up and the water is calling. Go in.

Kirra Beach is right there. The water is clear, the waves are usually manageable, and there's no good reason to skip it. Stay longer than you planned.

Kirra Beach House — Lunch

The Kbh needs no explanation to anyone who's spent time in Cooly. Cold beer (or margaritas), ocean view, food done well. Sit out on the deck if you can. Let the afternoon arrive.

La Stradina — The Last Light

When the day cools off, find the laneway.

La Stradina is the kind of place that makes you feel like you've discovered something, even though the locals have known about it for a while. Candlelit, unhurried, fairy lights outside. Share plates, oysters, a wine list that's been considered. The full stop at the end of a good day.

And Then a Gelato

Swing by Gelatissimo on Marine Parade. Grab a cone and eat it outside. You've earned it.

This is Cooly. Find the old coast.